Mosquito Net. I love you; I hate you.

Being in Costa Rica requires a certain amount of tolerance for bugs and creatures and critters.  That means geckos and lizards and ants and grasshoppers in you bedroom and bathroom and kitchen area. I can handle that.  But the one bug that can drive me out of my mind, even in Ohio, is the mosquito.   I think the Mosquitos here only bite me, Kasia and people taking HGH, because they are enormous.   I have learned to love my mosquito net, even though I hate it too.   A typical nighttime routine...

1.  Use the restroom before bed in hopes that I won't have to use it again during the night, disrupting the mosquito net.

2. Untie the mosquito net and secure it around the mattress so no holes are available for the bugs.

3. Grab the flashlight and get into bed, trying hard not to disrupt much of the net.

4. Lie down in the secured net. Turn off the light.   Goodnight. 

5. Hear the buzz of a giant mutant mosquito in my ear.  Note: this usually occurs within 2 minutes of getting comfy.  Turn on flashlight.   Hunt that thing down.  Kill it.   After many nights of this, you get used to blood on your hands.  It's ok.  I'm taking them out one by one. 

6. Sleep for a couple of hours. 

7. Kasia hears the buzz. Flashlight. Hunt. Kill.  

8. Shit, I should go to the bathroom.   The problem with this is the fact that I see about 50 monsters hanging on the outside of the mosquito net.  Must go pee.  I scurry through the net opening as fast as possible. Relief.  Return to bed.  

9. Begin again from step 3.

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the mosquito net in our LazDivas casita.  

The (un)button-down shirt

The other day Sara graciously offered to take us to a nearby beach.   It's largely unknown, gorgeous and relatively empty since most people go to the better-known beaches.   We divided up duties to get going, and I went with a couple from the UK to get sandwiches at a sub shop.   It's right near the beach, open air, and on most days it's very hot.   The big, tan gringo making our sandwiches and sweating had on a short-sleeved, button-down shirt -- completely unbuttoned. Belly out. It's normal to see things like this here, and my sandwich was delicious.  Can you imagine the health inspection reports if this was in Columbus?  

The curse of Kasia

January 16; 88 degrees

Breakfast every morning is now under a palapa overlooking the beach.  This is where we take our time, enjoy some coffee and decide what our day might entail.  Sara (the owner of LazDivaz) and I begin rehashing some events and stories from our BBQ on the beach.  This leads us to talk about the makeshift grill that she has created from an old metal chair.  Sara tells me of her plans to drill small holes into the side of the drum in the shapes of stars and the moon.  She then proceeds to explain that the best thing to make one of the fire pits or grill is an old clothes washer drum.  They already have the holes in it and they are made of stainless steel so they will never rust. In an instant, I blurted out,  "Maybe your washer will break and you will have your new fire drum!".

Not even 30 mins later, Sara decides to do some laundry and her washer stops working.  She curses me for even suggesting that her washer should break down.  The letters "de" show up on the display trying to indicate what is wrong.  None of us knows what this means.  Sara pulls out the owners manual and we look it up.  The description is indicating that the door is open.  We head back to the washer to see what may be either holding the door open or causing the sensor to go off.  We begin to clean a little debris from the joints and make sure no lint is stuck anywhere on the lid.  After cleaning, we try again.  Nope, that wasn't it.  We inspect the lid again and start to take apart the back lid to see if any wiring may have come loose.  We unattach and reattach the wiring and try it again.  Nope,  that didn't fix it either.  

By this time, Mandy walks in and wonders what the heck Sara and I are up to.  We continue to troubleshoot and notice a little bit of rust on the very edge of the lid.  This didn't make any sense because all the parts we can see are plastic.  This was our first clue that a piece might be missing.  We begin to remove items from the washer and drain the water.  An assembly line makes the most sense.  One person to remove items from the drum,  one person to hold the hose and drain water into buckets and a third person to water the garden with full buckets.  Don't waste that water!!!

The rust mark on the bottom of the lid is still bugging us.  Maybe it is a piece of metal that tips off the sensor there.  Sara grabs the lid of a tuna can and cuts off a piece.  We shove the piece of metal into a little slot where the rust is showing and close the lid again.  "Let's try it!".  We hold our breathe and wait...no such luck.

We finish draining the drum when Mandy and Sara discover something stuck to the inside.  "What is that?".  Mandy inserts her monkey arms and pulls it out.  It is a small, skinny, rusted magnet broken in half.  We squeeze it into the slot under the lid and try it again.  "Oh wait, it won't work without water in it."  We start pouring water from the last bucket back into the washer instead of wasting more water.  To elevate the level of water, we toss the sheets back in too.  We close the lid and try one last time...no one breathes...it works!  Sara lets out a sigh of relief before she bans me from ever speaking about any of the appliances again.  Quickly,  Sara and Mandy declare that if anything else goes wrong in the day, it will certainly be my fault.

Deep down,  I know that we were all glad to have one another there to troubleshoot.  There is no worse feeling than when you pay for an expert to fix an appliance when it really was an easy fix.  Today,  I will take the blame from their shoulders.

Mandy by the fire pit on the beach.  This is before the washer incident the next day.

The fire pit/grill

The fire pit/grill

Stay a while

 

January 15: 88 degrees

Today we move from Tico Adventure Lodge (on the main road through Samara) to a casita on the beach.  We are now staying at LazDivaz for a few nights.  We settle in,  relax a bit on the beach and then decide to treat ourselves to a nice dinner.  "Let's have a date night!"  We walk around town a little in search of some seafood.  It's not hard to find it here, but we wanted the right feel as well.  We land at a restaurant on the beach.  Here, they have tables in the sand, lit tiki torches and a moonlit ocean just steps away.  This is the right place.  The menu looks fantastic and for the next hour or so, we enjoy green curry mahi mahi, shrimp pad thai and a couple of refreshing mojitos.

This is when and where we decide to stay in Samara for another week to figure out the next stops of our time in Costa Rica. Samara feels comfortable.  Plus, we get to stay w Sara at LazDivaz! Yeah, it's awesome on the beach, but the REAL difference is to to have a friend in town.  

One of the main streets in Samara

One of the main streets in Samara

 

Last morning at Tico Lodge before heading to LazDivaz

Last morning at Tico Lodge before heading to LazDivaz

 

In front of LazDivaz, right on the beach

In front of LazDivaz, right on the beach

Friends old and new

January 14; 88 degrees

This morning, nothing sounded better than fried plantains for breakfast!  Our window was open and a nice breeze coming through.  The door next to the stove just made me feel closed in.  I open it while cooking.  Within a couple of minutes, I am frightened by the shadow of something walking through the door.  A little black and white cat walked in and made himself at home on our floor.  He is a friendly little thing and he warmly welcomes our scratches to his head.  I also notice just how trim this little guy is.  I mention to Mandy that we sure don't see any 20lb cats here like at home.  As we continue to talk about this, I feel a nip to my ankle.  Apparently our new roommate didn't appreciate us spending so much time together and not with him.  I take my plate to go sit on the balcony and I am accompanied quickly by Mr. Gato.  He sits on the table beside me and we enjoy a few moments of peace.  This reminds me of Malcolm and I on the back deck on any Sunday warm enough to sit outside.  Mr. Gato brought a piece of home to me.

Samara is in the middle of our path down the Pacific coast, and we made a decision to spend some time here meeting up with friends.  We had become friends with Sara, the owner of a B&B that we stayed at a couple of years ago, and we heard that a colleague and friend of Mandy's would be in a neighboring town during the same time.  What luck!

We meet Aggie in Samara today for lunch and a bucket of beer on the beach. What easily would have been a conversation about work if we were back in the States, instead was a pleasant conversation about life, people and enjoying the moment.  What still sticks in my head is Aggie thanking me for doing this with Mandy and saying "Mandy needs this." The truth is that we both needed and wanted this.  We had forgotten how to relax and enjoy the art of doing nothing.  After this wonderful lunch, Mandy and I hit the water.

Following an afternoon of surfing, swimming and boogie boarding, everyone staying at the same B&B decide to have a BBQ together after sunset.  We gather contributions from all and have a spread of grilled sausage, vegetables, fresh guacamole and some strawberry bread from a local bakery.  This was the beginning of us making new friends.  Josephine and Alex are a young couple who came to Costa Rica for love.  One is from San Francisco and the other from Montreal.  Sounds so romantic and watching them really is too. Mandy and I squeeze each other's hands and exchange a wink when we listen to their story.  We both know how lucky we are to still feel this way after 13 years together.

Of course a beach BBQ is not complete without a couple of cervezas. As each of us tip back a couple, the personal stories were shared more freely.  The one that sticks in my mind the most was the one about performing a Brazilian wax to oneself in front of a mirror.  The details of this story are comical all by themselves, but it was the delivery of the story that left everyone in the audience in pain from laughter.  I don't think I have had a belly laugh like that in quite some time!

Somewhere along the night, someone delivered a hermit crab to the table.  Where did this come from and how did it just become the center of attention?  All the sudden everyone was looking for a new home for this crab.  The shell he was occupying was clearly too small.  Finally,  we place him in a bowl with a couple of "double-wide" options and wait for him to move.  We wait and wait.  Suddenly, Josephine begins to sing songs from the "Little Mermaid" movie.  Holy shit!  It is actually working!  The crab is responding and starting to come out of his shell.  We try music from a cell phone.  We try singing other songs.  We giggle in amazement that this crab is responding only to Josephine's voice. This is crazy.  "Do it again!".  Again, the crab comes out of its shell.  Crazy.

Unfortunately, the picky crab wasn't into the options we gave him as new shells. We set the crab free and had a great night with new friends.

Josephine singing to our hermit crab friend

Josephine singing to our hermit crab friend

 

Kasia and Josephine doing food prep

Kasia and Josephine doing food prep

Our feast.   

Our feast.   

 

 

Awesome to see Aggie for lunch and a beer on the beach! 

Awesome to see Aggie for lunch and a beer on the beach! 

what a great day overall!

Loving life, but missing home

We've been in Costa Rica now for more than 2 weeks.  We've traveled around, taken Spanish classes, and met up with old friends.  We're loving the ocean, the exercise, the fresh fruits and the seafood.   It's been incredible!  But yesterday and today...I miss home.   I miss my family.   My friends.  My cats.  My bed and my routines.   I'm not complaining and I'm not sad, but if I could drop by later to watch football with my mom and with Jamie, I'd do it.  

Maybe a swim in the ocean will help me feel better.  :-) 

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Our cats are probably doing this right now

Playa Samara feels better

 

Jan 13: 88 degrees

First off, Happy birthday Dusty Sadowski!  We love you.

Again, we awake without an alarm clock.  It is great, yet surprising, that we still get up around 7:00am everyday.  I think this is now our new body alarm clock.  Today,  we wake up in our studio apartment at the Tico Adventure Lodge.  We love the room as it is spacious, quaint and serves all of our basic needs; bathroom, shower, bed, mosquito net, fans, stovetop and utensils.  We also have a big beautiful window that opens and has a screen.  When we open the windows, we have a view of the treetops and a few iguanas in the trees and we invite a small breeze into our room.

Today,  we have three agenda items:  groceries, surfing and exploring parts of Samara that we have never seen before.  Mandy takes a surf lesson because it allows her to rent the board for free for the rest of the week.  Again, upon her return, she looks defeated by the waves but determined to get better at surfing.  She is slightly more excited today by her lesson.  The instructor was much more specific with his instructions about her technique and this helped her to recognize what she may be doing wrong or how she can get better.  I can already tell the excitement for her next attempt.  Mañana.

This is a good beach to learn to surf, but it's very, very basic because the waves are small.  The waves were bigger when we visited in March 2012, but the Sept 2012 earthquake here elevated the beach and changed/lessened the waves a bit.  

Later, we begin our exploration by heading into the main part of town.  We notice a few new shops and restaurants and we remind ourselves where the groceries and pharmacies are located.  We decide to head down a road we have never been down before.  Almost instantly, the mood changes.  We see far fewer gringos and we just happen upon a young girl on a horse.  Our curiosity took us a couple of miles off the beaten path.  Here, we discovered a small bakery,  a couple of lodges, a bike repair shop, and a bus stop with a drunk Tico lying on the bench who later stumbles off of the bench and onto the grass a couple of feet away.  When we turned the other direction, there was an open field with horses, palm trees and an amazing view of the ocean.  About here is where we were accompanied by a couple of Canadians walking to the beach.  We shared stories and survival tips on our way to the beach.  If you run out of bug spray, you can use Listerine for the same purpose (not that we have any).

Ah yes, it is time for sunset on the beach again!  Knowing that we will be changing our lodging (moving from Tico Lodge to LazDivaz) in a couple of days,  we decide to walk along the road to see what the trek will be like with our bags.  About half way there and dodging traffic, we notice something in the tree just ahead.  As we get closer, we notice monkeys in the trees.  These monkeys were so close and didn't seem to be bothered by our presence.  It felt as though we could have reached out and touched them.  We stood and just watched as we were joined by an Australian man who also stopped to watch.  We talked about the very tiny baby monkey who was holding onto its mothers back for its dear life.  They are so cool to watch.  We all enjoyed a couple of moments in awe and regretful that we didn't have a camera or phone to capture this moment.  Again.

Sunset again on the beach. Awesome.

Sunset in Samara

Sunset in Samara

Bussing it to Samara. Almost.

 

Jan 12: 97 degrees

Today we leave for Playa Samara and we try to figure out the Costa Rica bus system.  What drove us largely to spend time in Samara is friends.  We have stayed in touch with a woman who owned the B&B in which we stayed two years ago.  Also, a former coworker/friend of Mandy's will be there around the same time.

We must catch the bus from the town of Tamarindo and do so at 7am.  After a lot of research about Costa Rica bus schedules, we understand that we have to make 2 stops prior to arriving in our next destination, Playa Samara.  Santa Cruz, Nicoya and then Samara.

The bus arrives and we feel compelled to ask and make sure this bus is going to Santa Cruz.  The day prior we were made aware that Costa Rica has multiple bus companies and it may be necessary to change bus companies in order to get to yor final destination.  The bus that pulled up was supposed to be Alfaro.  This one was not but claimed to be going to Santa Cruz. We board.

At the bus stop, we chat with a girl from Sweden.  She has a huge hiking backpack, stayed in a hostel and we are sharing knowledge about traveling the country.  We board the bus and sit next to one another.  Our first leg is interesting.  It is mostly gravel road and winding through neighboring towns, making a few stops.  What we notice is that there are very few "official" bus stops.  As long as you are on the bus route, you can stand there and flag down the bus.  We stop a few times between Tamarindo and Santa Cruz.  The bus is not tremendously packed, it is a bumpy ride and quite dusty.  As we move along our route, we aren't exactly sure where we should be getting off.  Not much is marked and we continue on believing that our final destination must be evident.  All the sudden, we notice our Swedish amiga stand up and motion for the bus driver to pull over.  She is signaling with her hand to her mouth.  At that moment, we realize the bumpy road, the frequent turns and multiple stops has made our friend sick.  The bus driver stops and lets her "release".  I was fine with the trip until this moment.  I think I was convincing myself that, I too, might not be able to handle the rugged road and driving.

We make it to Santa Cruz and to our relief, it is clearly marked as we arrive in a bus station.  We get off the bus and get in line for the next leg of our trip.  Off to Nicoya. We board the bus just fine and notice this leg is packed.  Again, we assume our final destination will be clearly marked.  It was and we arrived about 1 and 1/2 hrs later.  Again, exiting at a bus station.  This time, a line of people board the bus and head off.  There are no attendants.  As a matter of fact, Mandy and I are the only ones in the station.  We see no schedules and have no one to ask.  Finally, we see a piece of paper taped to an office window.  Written says Carillo 7:30pm.  Our final destination is not on the list.  Because we have a been here before, we know that Carillo is right next to Samara.  That's the bus we need! But it is not yet noon and we refuse to wait until 7:30pm for the bus.  We walk down the street and ask a couple of cab drivers about the bus and if maybe we are to catch another company bus from Tamarindo.  They tell us that this is the only bus station in town.  Feeling defeated, we ask how much for a cab to Samara.  $50 by cab.  Bus would have been $3.  We agree to take the taxi.

We get to Samara just before 10:00am and we are just happy to be there.  It already feels like home because of the familiarity of being there before.  Upon checking into our new place, we ask about the bus schedule.  We find out that it runs right in front of the Tico Adventure Lodge that we are checking into every 45 minutes :(. What we were translating at the bus station is that the LAST bus to Carrillo not the NEXT one) is at 7:30pm.  Just another reason to learn the language better. Dammit.

We settle into our place and decide to grab a bite to eat.  Already, Samara feels more quaint and relaxing than Tamarindo.  It isn't as bustling and we don't hear as much English spoken here.  We end up at a Soda we discovered and loved before.  Sodas are restaurants or even little stands that typically have local foods at cheaper prices.  Here, we are served by a very kind woman who is tolerating our attempts to speak Spanish.  She is helping us to finish our sentence by giving us the Spanish and English version of the word.  She is also providing food and seasoning recommendations in case we are interested in eating like the locals.  We take her up on it and have an amazing lunch.  As we are ready to pay our bill, another woman walks into the Soda and starts talking to the woman who served us.  They are talking in Spanglish.  I walk out as there is little space in the kitchen where we are paying an it is already filled with people.  Mandy stays to pay and engages in conversation with these ladies.  After a couple of minutes, Mandy tells me that these two women are lesbians and they are sisters.  She says that being gay here is not ok according to the older sister.  Their father actually blames the other sister for the younger sister also being gay.   

I don't know why I was so surprised by this because it is common in any culture with deep roots in Catholisism.  Besides,  I almost instantly knew that each of them were gay, especially the younger one.  But, to blame someone for "making you gay"?  I wonder what superpowers she must have had to done that.  I was tempted to go back and tell her to tell her father that there must be something defective about his sperm.  LOL!  Instead, we walked off and sympathized with what she was going through.

Finally, we are in Samara and we are aware of the tradition at LazDivaz B&B at sunset.  They welcome their guests with a beer to watch sunset on the beach around 5:15.  Even though we are not staying there yet, we are going to say hello to the owner who we became friends with during our stay two years ago.  We arrive and are greeted by Sara with open arms, "Hola Chicas!", accompanied with a big welcoming hug.  We walk over together to view our first sunset in Playa Samara.

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Nature up close!

Jan 11: 89 degrees

Kasia here...

Today is our first day without class and we sleep in for about half an hour.  It feels great just knowing that we did not have to wake up to an alarm clock.  This also reminds us just how much of our lives is run by that annoying sound of the alarm going off in the morning.  The difference now is that our heads are no longer flooded with thoughts and worries about work.  It made my stomach turn a little to just write about it.

Instead, we start our day with a pot of coffee and a game called Sequence.  Our friend Jamie bought a travel version for us as a gift.  We set up shop on the patio of our apartment.  We are surrounded by trees, a walkway and many tropical plants in the garden.  There is a slight breeze and we can hear the ocean.  Let's take our time this morning and enjoy our surroundings.

It wasn't that long before our apartment neighbor, Todd, walked by with his dog Ella.  Todd and his wife are from the Florida Keys and visiting Costa Rica to see if it is a place that he and his wife could live out their retirement.  Todd is an extremely friendly guy and was very open about his political views and his frustration with American government.  Nonetheless, we continue to have great conversations and it is obvious that everyone enjoyed chatting.  Todd graciously has invited us down to his house later this year to visit.  He is excited to teach Mandy and I how to hunt for lobster.  We agree to make it a date and we exchange information.

Today, we also hit the laundromat.  But you don't get to wash your own clothes...you deliver them, you pick them up hours later, and you get charged by the kilo.   In Tamarindo (an expensive town, even in relatively expensive Costa Rica), our one load of laundry costs us $13.  We will be more resourceful in coming weeks with what we packed! 

It only feels appropriate now to head to the beach.  We have some sun and fun but no luck finding a surf board on this end of the beach.  No complaints since we have many days ahead of us in the sun.  On the way to the beach, we discover the stairs to take us to the beach are being renovated.  For a moment this blockade to the beach felt like the end of the world.  We grabbed our things and went to find another path.  About 30 feet down the road we see a little dirt path between a resort and a house.  We take it.  Mid path, I look up and barely mutter Mandy's name.  "Mandy look!".  Within about an arms length, a type of bird we have never seen before.  It looks like a Blue Jay and a quail had a baby.  The bird is not at all concerned with us.  Rather, it seems to be chatting with us.  We chat back and it continues.  "How cool is that?" As we utter our famous last words, "I wish we had the camera."  I look it up, and it is a White-Throated Magpie Jay.  http://www.pbase.com/dadas115/image/110117732

White-Throated Magpie-Jay

White-Throated Magpie-Jay

 

 

Wifi: So good. So bad.

Having wifi available almost everywhere is both an awesome thing and a terrible thing.   Today, I'm making a deal w myself to only access news, email, etc once/day so that we really unplug.   It has been great to have wifi to talk w mom, keep up w friends and research our next stop.  But it's soooo easy to keep old routines of checking email, checking news, looking at FB, etc.    It will be interesting to see how I do.  

"I can't possibly eat another salami sandwich".

 

Jan 10: 88 degrees

"I can't possibly eat another salami sandwich".  We have been trying to manage our costs by committing to eat both breakfast and lunch in our apartment.  The cheapest, most efficient way without a stovetop to cook was to buy bread, meat and cheese for sandwiches. Today, we hit our sandwich tolerance.  We must find another solution!

Last day of Spanish school!  We have completed 5 days of intense learning.  We are thankful for taking them but, are excited to gain our mornings back.  Noon comes fast and there are only four people graduating today out of about 20.  The others were continuing their studies.  Some we're staying for 3 months.

We agree to meet the other graduates on the beach for sunset to celebrate.  Here, we bring a bottle of wine,  watch the sunset and enjoy great conversations with our new Amigas.  "Good-bye Spanish school".  Mucho gracias for the education and the overall experience.  It feels surreal to have taken Spanish classes in an immersion school in Costa Rica on the beach.  This should be added to everyone's bucket list.  Worth every penny.

Monkeys, crabs and spiders...Oh my!

 

Jan 9:  88 degrees

For the last several days, we have been cohabitating with ants and crabs in our room.  This doesn't bother us because it was expected.  This morning we had one more friend.  A huge banana spider in our shower.  It just took one glance to one another to know that neither one of us was going to try to remove it.  Today, we go to class without a shower.

Once we exit our apartment, we realize that we left our bug spray out on the outside table and it was stolen.  Nooooooo!!!  It is so expensive and we were so careful about not leaving it on the playa.  It's a necessity and a luxury, so the price for bug spray in Costa Rica is silly (like more than $13 for a standard bottle).  One more bottle of bug spay equals two long trips on the bus to visit other towns.  Ugh.

As I wait for Mandy to head to class, I decide to go outside and check out the beach for a quick moment before we are stuck in class for the next 4 hours.  I start to make my way when I notice a family of monkeys in the trees above.  I run back to the apartment and shout, "Monkeys, Mandy! Monkeys!".  Mandy comes running out and for about 10 minutes we watch this family migrate across the tree tops.  It is about 7:30am and we are amazed that we are the only ones outside watching this.  There are about 6 babies stumbling from branch to branch above.  What an awesome way to start the morning.

Mandy learns of a Costa Rican superstition in her Spanish class today.  Apparently,  Costa Ricans (Ticos) pay special attention to the first 12 days of the year.  They view each day as a reflection of each month of the year.  For instance, if it is hot on January 2nd, then they believe they will have a hot February.  If it rains on January 3rd, then they will have a rainy March, etc.  I suppose this is just like us with Ground Hog Day except they don't sound as crazy as this American ritual.

This evening, Mandy and I end our night on the beach.  We grab a couple of beers and a flashlight (we actually brought a couple of small ones with us). I know, a couple of regular Girl Scouts.  We actually learned how helpful this is on the beach after sunset during our last trip here.  Anyway,  there is a small dirt path and stairs just behind our apartment that takes us down to the beach.  Here, we find a log and sit.  The tide is so high now that the water is only about 15 feet from us.  During the day, we can walk down the beach to the neighboring town.  We wouldn't dare try that now.  The water is far too high.  Instead, it feels as though we are on our own private little beach.  We talk for a little bit but it is accompanied with long bouts of silence.  We are listening to the waves coming ashore, viewing the brightly lit stars and noticing how vibrant the moon is.  It strikes us how much the moon is muted by city lights.  Tonight, it is lighting up the sky.  We take a deep breath.  I know that each of us is seizing the moment.

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monkeys in the trees right outside our apt near Tamarindo

Older and wiser?

 

Jan 8, 91 degrees

Today Mandy tries her hand in surfing after our morning classes.  She signs up and she is off with an instructor.  I hang under a tree on the beach.  I am not yet ready for surfing after my ankle surgery in October.  I read and do a little homework on the beach.  Homework is almost laughable when you are doing it on the beach.  It doesn't feel like work at all.

Almost 2 hours later, I see Mandy and the instructor walk in front of me.  The look on her face said it all.  Surfing kicked her ass and she was ready to be done.  Her only comment to me today was, "Now, I know why there are no fat surfers".

As we continue Spanish classes,  we seem to be becoming friends with a couple of girls from Oregon/Washington state.  We see them near the beach and agree to have dinner together.  Over dinner we discover that these girls are in there mid 20s, smart, funny and enjoyable. They tell us of their goals to stay in Costa Rica until their money runs out.  They especially want to stay until April when they have friends coming to visit.  They plan to stretch EVERY dollar.  We then continue the discussion about life in general.  Life goals, kids, jobs, responsibility, pets, etc.  this is where it hits us!  We find ourselves giving these girls advice and wanting greatly to nurture them through life's lessons.  We've done it. We've crossed the line! We have a bad case of O.L.D. Syndrome.

Unexpected

 

Jan 7: 91 degrees

It is 8am and here we go again in Spanish class.  I take a deep breath, look out to the beach and take a sip of my coffee.  I am bracing myself for today's lesson.  To my surprise, I am beginning to understand my instructor.  I can't make out every word he is saying but, enough to actually know what is going on.  This is crazy!  I cannot yet put a full sentence together, but my comprehension is already greater.  Today's class is much better and Mandy accuses me of enjoying myself.  I'm now excited to learn Spanish.

On Tuesdays,  CSI welcomes students to the beach for a couple of cervezas and to watch the sunset.  We join them at 5, and we watch the sunset while making new friends.  We are in class with Americans and Armanians.  Some are traveling by themselves,  some with friends, and some with family members.  They range in age from 14 to mid 50s.  During the day, we are all Spanish students and tonight,  we watch a breath-taking sunset.

Tonight,  we walk to the far end of Tamarindo and find a little place called FT's. It looks like a little dive but the menu sounds great.  We give it a shot.  We sit and order a couple of 750 ML Pilsen to start the night off right.  Here, we decide to split a huge burrito.  It is fantastic!  Everything in it was so good and fresh and this place is cheap, relatively speaking.  What we didn't know when we walked into this place is that Mandy and I were going to have a wonderful little date night.  The food was great,  the beer was treating us well, but the conversation reminded me of why I am in love with my wife.

One last surprise for the night.  We get back to our apartment for the night and it was clean!!!  Housekeeping was there today.  You see, this is exciting because we have crabs, large spiders and ants in our room daily.  They are now gone, we now have beach towels and no more sand on our bed.

 

"No se" is ok

 

Jan 6: Spanish school, 93 degrees

Over the years, we have become quite fond of traveling to Central America.  In the past, we knew enough Spanish to get by.  Banos, cerveza, hola, gracias,etc.  For those things I didn't know, I relied on Mandy's 5 yrs of Spanish in college. This week, we started Spanish classes at the Coastal Spanish Institute (CSI).  The classrooms are right on the beach,  windows are open and you can hear the waves rolling on shore.  Beyond the primo location,  I didn't quite know what to expect.  I was going to just embrace the experience.  I was in the beginner class and Mandy in another that was more advanced.  Ok, here we go.  EVERY single word coming out of the instructor's mouth was in Espanol.  It didn't take me long to realize that I didn't know anything.  I got real used to saying, "No se". (I don't know)

I finish the four hour class and my head feels like it is going to explode.  Mandy walks up and asks, "How did it go?".  She saw the frustration on my face and quickly reminded me that I was here to learn.  "It will get better.  Let's go grab some lunch".

The days are hot and we often have to remind ourselves to eat.  Not hungry for much in this heat. This is good for not spending a lot of money on food as Mandy and I are splitting a lot of meals.  Today for lunch,  Subway sounds good and refreshing.  We both order then sit in silence as we look at our receipt.  "Holy shit." "This is the most expensive $5 foot long Subway sandwich I have ever had!"  It was nearly $20 for our meal.  Lesson learned.  We head to the grocery to pick up a few things and make a pact to eat 2 meals a day in our apartment.

At the grocery store, we also discover how expensive things like bug spray and sunblock are. Today, it is hot out and we are realizing that our 30 block isn't going to be very effective.  It hurts when the cashier rings up the 60 block.  These are now novelty items that we must not leave laying around.  All the sudden, these items are as precious to us as a car.  Don't leave it on the beach, don't leave it on the beach, don't leave it on the beach.

 

You never see fat surfers

Today, I took a surf lesson while Kasia hung out, read, studied Spanish, etc.   It was great! I got up on the board -- albeit a long board for beginners -- at least 10 times and rode some waves.  But about 90 minutes into a 2-hour lesson, I started to long for water (to drink, not in my nose, and unsalted please,), and a nap.  It kicked my butt!  What a great workout! I now get why all surfers have those annoyingly fit bodies.   Later this week, I'll try again by simply renting a board and giving it a try on my own.  

Yo necessito buen suerte.   (Sorry Jamie.... No pics of my attempting to surf) :-)

 

Samara, a good beach for beginners

Samara, a good beach for beginners

Heading to the beach


Jan 5,  91 degrees

Today we head to the beach!!!

Today, we must get up early (6:00am) to catch a cab to a neighboring town just to catch a shuttle to Tamarindo. Tamarindo is located on the northwestern pacific coast of Costa Rica.  This will be a 5 hr journey from San Jose and this is where we will begin Spanish immersion school.

The mountain area was beautiful, however, it was quite isolating.  The temperatures were much cooler and convenience was not a common term.  The closest store was about a 20-minute walk on level roads, but about 45 minutes with steep inclines.  We bought food and drinks while in San Jose in anticipation that we would not be able to get these things once back in the mountains (Mostly because of a lack of transportation).

We arrive in Allejuela and are dropped off near the airport.  We get there a little early so we decide to have breakfast.  Denny's!  Sounds familiar and we know what kind of food to expect.  YES, they have wifi!!!!!  This is our first real opportunity to connect and communicate with anyone back home.  I don't remember Mandy nor I speaking to one another the entire time.  Can't even remember what she had for breakfast.  The both of us were just starving to be connected, even though, it is the very thing we wanted so badly to get away from. Funny.

The shuttle:  on the shuttle were only two other people, both young women.  One was from Colorado and currently is majoring in Spanish.  She is joining us at the same immersion school.  She eventually wants to teach English in Chile. Interesting.  The other woman is originally from Germany but now lives in Switzerland.  She is currently between jobs and has come to Costa Rica for a break and to learn Spanish.

About 2 hrs into our trip, we stop for a break and to switch drivers for the second leg of our trip. The small plaza obviously caterers to tourists.  Here we find a cafe, a restaurant and a gift shop.  As the shuttle door opens, we here, "Ohhhs and ahhhhs" with everyone looking toward the sky.  Just above us are vibrant parrots in the tree tops.  We can't pull out our cameras fast enough.  Blue mixed with red and greens and yellows.  It is everything that Costa Rican t-shirts are made of.

Loading back on to the shuttle, we are joined by three other women.  These women are from Sweden, Denmark and Switzerland.  They speak English very well and we find out that they also speak three other languages.  This is when it strikes me.  All these people from other countries that are either bi or trilingual. I strain when I try to think about how many of my friends know other languages.  I can only think of a couple.  

Finally, we arrive in Tamarindo.  Tamarindo is very commercialized compared to other towns in Costa Rica and very much caters to Americans.  Restaurants, surf shops, gift shops and vendors everywhere.  "Want coconuts?"  "Want a cigar?" "What kind of tour would you like?"  I can't say that we aren't excited about the level of accessibility.  We have three goals for our time in Tamarindo:

1.  Learn/brush up on Spanish through an immersion school

2.  Talk to backpackers to learn to "live on the cheap"

3.  Figure out all the places we want to visit while in Costa Rica

As we get settled into our apartment, we realize we are not alone.  We actually have a roommate. It is a crab.  In the most pathetic and careful way, using a plate and plastic bowl, we remove him from our apt and head out for a bite.  Sadly enough, we end up at an American sports bar called "Sharkeys" and we splurge on wings and a pitcher of beer.  I know, I know.  We couldn't stop ourselves.

Welcome to Tamarindo!  Pura Vida!



 

Hot as balls and holy mountain walking

January 4,  76 degrees

Clearly, by the title of this blog, we all now understand that each post is a combo of Mandy and Hot-as-Balls Kasia.    Maybe it's because we are 11 degrees from the Equtator.

Yesterday (Jan 4/Saturday), we decided to lay low and enjoy staying in the mountains.  The sky is clear and we can see the mountain tops.  We have a direct view of San Jose valley and the sun feels hot.  After breakfast we head to the garden and enjoy a picturesque view of the mountain tops and green, lush, scenery.  Mandy wants beaches, but must wait one more day.  Here we stretch, read and write about our days and experiences from the previous day and breathe in the fresh air.  We are finally starting to relax.

When hunger sets in, we venture off to lunch (again walking to Potreros, but with better directions), and the owners dogs slip out of the gate and begin to follow us.  Trying to not repeat the mistakes of a couple of days ago, Mandy is now convinced that she can lead us directly to the restaurant.  She says, "remember, the girl told is to go right until it dead ends and then go left."  We begin our mission to find this direct route.  We turn right and keep walking.  Going right includes a direct path uphill.  A steep hill.  Every intersection gives us hope that a dead end is quickly approaching.  Nudging my hand is the nose of the owner's dog who followed.  Guilt is setting in that it is hot, uphill, and that a dog is following.  Just as we begin to feel this might not be the right path, we come across a cab driver who speaks English.  We ask where the restaurant is and understanding that we went wrong, he agrees to drive us there.

As we climb into the cab and shut the door, we see the face of the owners dog.  We can't just leave him.  We are reminded of the owner's daughter who says it is ok if they get out because they know how to get back in.  Has the dog ever travelled this far away from home?  Are we being silly?  Of course this dog knows the area better than us.  We head to lunch as we see the dog run behind the car.  Our hearts drop.

Watching the cabby's every move, we now know how to get back.  It only took us three days of trial and error in the winding mountain roads.

We walk back, perhaps still too ambitious, as the roads are steep, the sun is hot, and we have only two good ankles between us.  Finally, we arrive at the driveway with two tall columns topped with lion statues and we are happily greeted by the owners's dog. Thank goodness.

Tired, hot and a little sunburned, we are ready for a siesta.

Tomorrow (Sunday), we get up early to drive to a neighboring town to share a shuttle to Tamarindo beach.  It will be nearly a 5-hour trip to the northwest Pacific coast.

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